Hur du fotograferar norrsken
Hur du fotograferar norrsken
Det är mig du ser på bilden. Att fotografera norrsken är en utmaning. Dels att det verkligen blir norrsken när det är beräknat, och sedan att ha en kamera med optik av lämplig modell, samt att allt är korrekt inställt, även skärpan. Det går att fotografera norrsken med nästan vilken kamera eller optik som helst men självklart så finns det de som är mer lämpliga för just norrsken. Jag går här igenom utrustning och teknik, steg för steg.
Det är mig du ser på bilden. Att fotografera norrsken är en utmaning. Dels att det verkligen blir norrsken när det är beräknat, och sedan att ha en kamera med optik av lämplig modell, samt att allt är korrekt inställt, även skärpan. Det går att fotografera norrsken med nästan vilken kamera eller optik som helst men självklart så finns det de som är mer lämpliga för just norrsken. Jag går här igenom utrustning och teknik, steg för steg.
Kamerahus
En kamera med fullformatssensor är att föredra. Ju modernare kamera desto bättre är de på höga ISO, något som är viktigt vid norrskensfoto. En mindre sensor, t ex av APS-C-storlek, går också att använda, men de är generellt inte lika bra på höga ISO som en fullformatskamera. Micro 4/3 har för liten sensor för denna typ av fotografering i mina ögon. Mellanformat är som sensor i regel bättre vid normal fotografering men i detta fall så faller de på att det inte finns så ljusstarka objektiv till dessa. Det finns inga ljusstarkare bra vidvinklar än f/4 till mellanformat medan till fullformat finns det med f/1,4 vilket blir hela 3 bländarstegs skillnad. Därav är fullformat det bästa alternativet för norrskensfotografering. Det är det optimala, men har du redan en kamera med mindre sensor så använd den. Man tager vad man haver.
Kamerahus
En kamera med fullformatssensor är att föredra. Ju modernare kamera desto bättre är de på höga ISO, något som är viktigt vid norrskensfoto. En mindre sensor, t ex av APS-C-storlek, går också att använda, men de är generellt inte lika bra på höga ISO som en fullformatskamera. Micro 4/3 har för liten sensor för denna typ av fotografering i mina ögon. Mellanformat är som sensor i regel bättre vid normal fotografering men i detta fall så faller de på att det inte finns så ljusstarka objektiv till dessa. Det finns inga ljusstarkare bra vidvinklar än f/4 till mellanformat medan till fullformat finns det med f/1,4 vilket blir hela 3 bländarstegs skillnad. Därav är fullformat det bästa alternativet för norrskensfotografering. Det är det optimala, men har du redan en kamera med mindre sensor så använd den. Man tager vad man haver.
Sony
A7R V kamerahus 61 MP fullformat-sensor 8K 10-bitars 4:2:0 Fukt- & dammskyddad Canon
EOS R5 kamerahus Proffskvalitet för stillbild &video Video upp till 8K 4:2:2 10-bit & 30fps Serietagning upp till 20 bilder/s Nikon
Z7 II kamerahus 45,7 MP fullformatssensor Inbyggd 5-axlig bildstabilisering Filmning i 4K/60p Fujifilm
X-T5 kamerahus, svart 40MP X-trans CMOS 5HR sensor Inbyggd 7 stegs bildstabilisering 6,2K/30P & DCI4K/60P 4:2:2 10bit intern video
Objektiv
Generellt kan man säga att ju mer vidvinkel desto bättre, och ju högre ljusstyrka desto bättre. Bäst i skrivande stund skulle jag säga är Sigma 15mm f/1,4 DG DN Diagonal Fisheye.
Objektiv
Generellt kan man säga att ju mer vidvinkel desto bättre, och ju högre ljusstyrka desto bättre. Bäst i skrivande stund skulle jag säga är Sigma 15mm f/1,4 DG DN Diagonal Fisheye.
Stativ
Generellt kan man säga att ju större och starkare stativ desto bättre. Självklart. De blir ju stabilare. Men också dyrare att köpa och tyngre att släpa med sig. Hitta den balans mellan kostnad och stabilitet som passar dig. Ett mycket bra tips är att sätta självlysande tejp runt benen längst ner och längst upp. Har du varit ute och fotograferat norrsken så har du garanterat snubblat lite, eller mycket, på någon av dina stativben eller någon annans.
Stativ
Generellt kan man säga att ju större och starkare stativ desto bättre. Självklart. De blir ju stabilare. Men också dyrare att köpa och tyngre att släpa med sig. Hitta den balans mellan kostnad och stabilitet som passar dig. Ett mycket bra tips är att sätta självlysande tejp runt benen längst ner och längst upp. Har du varit ute och fotograferat norrsken så har du garanterat snubblat lite, eller mycket, på någon av dina stativben eller någon annans.
Kulled
Samma sak här att ju starkare och stabilare kulled du har desto bättre. Vilket är självklart. Hitta den balans mellan kostnad och stabilitet som passar dig. Kolla också att kulleden fungerar bra i kyla, då de flesta kulleder blir för tröga när temperaturen sjunker. Gör det innan du åker ut på en riktig norrskensfotografering, för om du har en kulled som går trögt kommer du att bli galen och kvällen blir till frustration istället för en fantastisk upplevelse. Tro mig, jag har gjort det misstaget.
Kulled
Samma sak här att ju starkare och stabilare kulled du har desto bättre. Vilket är självklart. Hitta den balans mellan kostnad och stabilitet som passar dig. Kolla också att kulleden fungerar bra i kyla, då de flesta kulleder blir för tröga när temperaturen sjunker. Gör det innan du åker ut på en riktig norrskensfotografering, för om du har en kulled som går trögt kommer du att bli galen och kvällen blir till frustration istället för en fantastisk upplevelse. Tro mig, jag har gjort det misstaget.
Sirui
Kulled K-20 II 90° tiltfunktion Snabbplatta ingår Inbygda vattenpass
Tidsinställning
Ju kortare exponeringstid desto bättre för då fångar du detaljerna i norrskenet. Ju längre exponeringstid du har desto mer "dimmigt" blir norrskenet. Nu blir det en kompromiss mellan så snabb tid som möjligt och så lågt ISO som möjligt, och detta beroende på hur ljusstarkt objektiv du har. Jag skulle säga att vid ett norrsken i storlek att det är i alla fall lönt att fotografera så om du har ett objektiv på f/2 och du kör kring ISO 1600 så får du en exponeringstid på 5-10s, och det funkar bra. Du bör i alla fall inte överskrida 30s för då blir norrskenet mer till en färgad dimma. En fördel är att ju större norrsken desto mer ljus avger det och det i sin tur ger kortare exponeringstider.
Tidsinställning
Ju kortare exponeringstid desto bättre för då fångar du detaljerna i norrskenet. Ju längre exponeringstid du har desto mer "dimmigt" blir norrskenet. Nu blir det en kompromiss mellan så snabb tid som möjligt och så lågt ISO som möjligt, och detta beroende på hur ljusstarkt objektiv du har. Jag skulle säga att vid ett norrsken i storlek att det är i alla fall lönt att fotografera så om du har ett objektiv på f/2 och du kör kring ISO 1600 så får du en exponeringstid på 5-10s, och det funkar bra. Du bör i alla fall inte överskrida 30s för då blir norrskenet mer till en färgad dimma. En fördel är att ju större norrsken desto mer ljus avger det och det i sin tur ger kortare exponeringstider.
Bländarinställning
Full öppning. Har du en undermålig optik som inte är skarp på full öppning så är tyvärr den bästa lösningen att skaffa en bättre optik. Näst bäst är att blända ner ett steg men då förlorar du mycket ljus i stället.
Bländarinställning
Full öppning. Har du en undermålig optik som inte är skarp på full öppning så är tyvärr den bästa lösningen att skaffa en bättre optik. Näst bäst är att blända ner ett steg men då förlorar du mycket ljus i stället.
ISO-inställning
Generellt så får du räkna med att ligga kring ISO 1600, vilket är beroende av hur ljusstark optik du har och hur ljusstarkt norrskenet är. På moderna kameror med fullformatssensor eller större så det i regel inget problem att gå upp till ISO 3200 eller 6400 heller. Fördel med högt ISO är att du får en kortare exponeringstid och kan frysa rörelsen på norrskenet, du kan också locka fram lite mer stjärnor. Nackdelen är att det blir en brusigare bild, men jag har aldrig hört någon klaga på att en norrskensbild är för brusig.
ISO-inställning
Generellt så får du räkna med att ligga kring ISO 1600, vilket är beroende av hur ljusstark optik du har och hur ljusstarkt norrskenet är. På moderna kameror med fullformatssensor eller större så det i regel inget problem att gå upp till ISO 3200 eller 6400 heller. Fördel med högt ISO är att du får en kortare exponeringstid och kan frysa rörelsen på norrskenet, du kan också locka fram lite mer stjärnor. Nackdelen är att det blir en brusigare bild, men jag har aldrig hört någon klaga på att en norrskensbild är för brusig.
Automatik
Jag rekommenderar att köra någon del av exponeringstriangeln på automatik. Själv kör jag med tidsautomatik, manuell ISO på 1600 och full bländaröppning, oftast på f/1,8 eller f/1,4 beroende på vilken optik jag använder. Anledningen till att jag inte rekommenderar att köra helt manuellt är att om den stora showen kommer så ökar ljusstyrkan på himlen till kanske 10-dubbla ljusmängden än tidigare och alla dina bilder kommer att bli överexponerade och ohjälpligt utfrätta i högdagrarna.
Automatik
Jag rekommenderar att köra någon del av exponeringstriangeln på automatik. Själv kör jag med tidsautomatik, manuell ISO på 1600 och full bländaröppning, oftast på f/1,8 eller f/1,4 beroende på vilken optik jag använder. Anledningen till att jag inte rekommenderar att köra helt manuellt är att om den stora showen kommer så ökar ljusstyrkan på himlen till kanske 10-dubbla ljusmängden än tidigare och alla dina bilder kommer att bli överexponerade och ohjälpligt utfrätta i högdagrarna.
Fokusering
Fokuseringen kan vara lite frustrerande. Man förstorar bilden på skärmen och ställer in skärpan på en stjärna, helt enkelt så att den ser så liten ut som möjligt, då har du rätt fokus. Ett problem är att det är alltför lätt att råka komma åt fokuseringen då man hanterar kameran och då blir alla bilder suddiga. Alla norrskensfotografer vet exakt vad jag menar. Många sätter eltejp för att låsa fast fokuseringsringen. Det funkar rätt bra men ibland så kan tejpen släppa av kylan och då är problemet tillbaka. Själv använder jag inte eltejp utan kollar av fokuseringen med jämna mellanrum.
Fokusering
Fokuseringen kan vara lite frustrerande. Man förstorar bilden på skärmen och ställer in skärpan på en stjärna, helt enkelt så att den ser så liten ut som möjligt, då har du rätt fokus. Ett problem är att det är alltför lätt att råka komma åt fokuseringen då man hanterar kameran och då blir alla bilder suddiga. Alla norrskensfotografer vet exakt vad jag menar. Många sätter eltejp för att låsa fast fokuseringsringen. Det funkar rätt bra men ibland så kan tejpen släppa av kylan och då är problemet tillbaka. Själv använder jag inte eltejp utan kollar av fokuseringen med jämna mellanrum.
Skakningsoskärpa
Använd kamerans självutlösare inställd på 2s eller en kabelutlösare så riskerar du inte att skaka kameran när du trycker av. Du kan också använda kamerans inbyggda intervalltimer. Då kan kameran mata på medan du själv bara kan njuta av norrskenet.
Skakningsoskärpa
Använd kamerans självutlösare inställd på 2s eller en kabelutlösare så riskerar du inte att skaka kameran när du trycker av. Du kan också använda kamerans inbyggda intervalltimer. Då kan kameran mata på medan du själv bara kan njuta av norrskenet.
Isbildning
För att undvika isbildning på frontlinsen om du är ute länge så kan du undvika det både lätt och billigt genom att sätta på objektivlocket när kameran inte används. Man kan även med fördel använda objektivvärmare.
Isbildning
För att undvika isbildning på frontlinsen om du är ute länge så kan du undvika det både lätt och billigt genom att sätta på objektivlocket när kameran inte används. Man kan även med fördel använda objektivvärmare.
Upptining
Har du varit ute i kraftig kyla så låt kameran sakta tina upp i fotoväskan. Oftast räcker det med den tid det tar att åka hem igen. Tar du ut kameran för tidigt så kan du få problem med kondens. Har du mycket fukt i bilen eller hemma så kan det vara bra att kameran tinar upp i en plastpåse, då för att undvika kondens.
Upptining
Har du varit ute i kraftig kyla så låt kameran sakta tina upp i fotoväskan. Oftast räcker det med den tid det tar att åka hem igen. Tar du ut kameran för tidigt så kan du få problem med kondens. Har du mycket fukt i bilen eller hemma så kan det vara bra att kameran tinar upp i en plastpåse, då för att undvika kondens.
RAW
Du måste köra i RAW-format så att du kan redigera bilderna på ett bra sätt. Detta är inte förhandlingsbart. Vet du inte hur man gör, så lär dig det först innan du gör något annat. Det är mycket enklare än de flesta jpg-fotografer tror.
RAW
Du måste köra i RAW-format så att du kan redigera bilderna på ett bra sätt. Detta är inte förhandlingsbart. Vet du inte hur man gör, så lär dig det först innan du gör något annat. Det är mycket enklare än de flesta jpg-fotografer tror.
Appar
Det finns flera bra appar till din telefon som kan hjälpa dig att se när det finns chans för norrsken. SpaceWeatherLive är den bästa appen men den kräver lite mer kunskap att utläsa. En annan bra som är mindre avancerad men enklare att läsa är AuroraAlerts.
Appar
Det finns flera bra appar till din telefon som kan hjälpa dig att se när det finns chans för norrsken. SpaceWeatherLive är den bästa appen men den kräver lite mer kunskap att utläsa. En annan bra som är mindre avancerad men enklare att läsa är AuroraAlerts.
Mobil
Att fotografera norrsken med mobilen känns principiellt helt fel men i dagens läge så går det faktiskt hjälpligt tack vare ny teknik, sk computational photography. Många telefoner av bättre sort kan ta nattbilder på fri hand. Vissa kan göra dettta i RAW-format så att du kan justera till bilderna på ett bra sätt efteråt. Har du ingen kamera så använd mobilen för all del. Om du fastnar för norrskensfotografering så bör en kamera med fullformatssensor stå högst upp på önskelistan.
Mobil
Att fotografera norrsken med mobilen känns principiellt helt fel men i dagens läge så går det faktiskt hjälpligt tack vare ny teknik, sk computational photography. Många telefoner av bättre sort kan ta nattbilder på fri hand. Vissa kan göra dettta i RAW-format så att du kan justera till bilderna på ett bra sätt efteråt. Har du ingen kamera så använd mobilen för all del. Om du fastnar för norrskensfotografering så bör en kamera med fullformatssensor stå högst upp på önskelistan.
Var inte rädd för att göra misstag. Här har du fått en bra kunskapsgrund. Oavsett vad du har för utrustning så gå ut och börja fotografera norrsken. Lär dig från gång till gång. Oavsett hur bilderna blir så har du kommit dig ut, och du har fått en himmelskt vacker show.
Var inte rädd för att göra misstag. Här har du fått en bra kunskapsgrund. Oavsett vad du har för utrustning så gå ut och börja fotografera norrsken. Lär dig från gång till gång. Oavsett hur bilderna blir så har du kommit dig ut, och du har fått en himmelskt vacker show.
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